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Goran Zec
Atomic Bread Baking at Home | The Believer - http://believermag.com/issues...
Atomic Bread Baking at Home | The Believer
"Tellingly, 98 percent of Rockford housewives in the USDA study believed that, despite its many flaws, industrial white bread was highly nutritious—a strong and vigorous food. People who still felt that there was just something wrong with industrial loaves would have to find a language other than that of nutritional science to express their doubts. Aesthetic arguments offered one of the only ways forward, but epicurean appeals often rang hollow against the muscle-bound science of enriched-white-bread advocates." - Goran Zec from Bookmarklet
"Thank god today's dreams of good society rest on the natural and rustic, I think. But baking USDA No. 1 has also attuned me to the possibility that today's miracle food can become tomorrow's catastrophe. In some ways, the visions of "good food" put forward by contemporary food reformers and champions of industrial eating couldn't be more opposed. But in their confident belief that "good food" can restore the physical, social, and moral fabric of the world, they are two sides of the same slice. In the way that their vision of "good food" ends up distinguishing "responsible" people from the duped and damned, they are alarmingly close." - Goran Zec
"...it wasn't just because Americans were duped by corporate advertising. Certainly, advertising did play a major role in producing the desire for industrial food (just as advertising also helps produce the desire for "homey" artisanal food). But the truth is bigger than advertising. It lies in an ethos of scientific eating that emerged out of real anxieties and aspirations in the early twentieth century." - Goran Zec
Vrijedi pročitati. - Goran Zec
"...they created a double-blind experiment that asked every member of every family to assess five different white-bread formulas over six weeks. Four years and almost one hundred thousand slices of bread after the project's conception, a clear portrait of America's favorite loaf emerged. It was 42.9 percent fluffier than the existing industry standard and 250 percent sweeter. This is the bread I sought to reproduce—"USDA White Pan Loaf No. 1"—the archetype of 1950s-vintage American bread." - Goran Zec
"Technology could accelerate fermentation, but it was too much a part of bread's flavor and structure to do away with altogether. Then, in 1952, John C. Baker, a chemist who first grew interested in bread while studying the effects of chlorine-gas bleaching on flour, grasped the problem from a new angle. Previously, scientists had worked to eliminate fermentation altogether, which was impossible, or to speed it up, which still left bakers waiting for space-hogging batches. What if, Baker speculated, instead of eliminating or speeding fermentation, the microbial action of yeasts could simply be separated into its own industrial process, removed from actual baking?" - Goran Zec
"When baking European breads, I bend over backward to produce a honeycomb of bright, irregular holes, a mark of quality in many artisanal loaves. But large, uneven holes have no place in the modernist aesthetic. Each one would represent an unacceptable reminder of bread's natural life, a worm-eaten realm of imperfection, unconquered by science. I can't wait to slice the bread open to reveal its secret architecture." - Goran Zec