"good photography, however imho a few photo titles do not fully reflect the picture. For instance http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_0ZUEZI... the flare, the close-up do not relate to the "It feels so empty without you around" title. I would have taken a wider focal length, and "drown" the subject in the scene"
- heri
"Sigma has a focus history problem. It's always better to buy one at an established retail store, one where you can exchange the lens, until you get a good copy"
- heri
"get rid of the UV filter, and put the lens hood instead Filters reduce contrast and micro-constrat. The hood will also prevent reflections and flares However, if you're going to parties with drunk people dancing, where there's a chance of someone spilling cocktails and food on your beer, buy a high-quality filter instead (B+W)"
- heri
"imho, the 7D was designed for sports and wildlife (birds), you might want to look at 50D or 5D Mkii, better suited to what you want to shoot. On a crop body, for landscapes, I recommend the Sigma 12-24mm. It has no distortion, no CA. Get also a tripod for portraits, get the Sigma 50/1.4 or the Canon 85/1.8. A few buyers report focusing frequent focusing issues with Sigmas. What I'd do is get one from a store which accepts returns/exchanges, and exchange it until you get a good copy. If you're not comfortable with a prime lens, another possible choice is a zoom lens like Canon's 17-40 f4. It's an L (professional lens), one of the best bargains, and would do both portraits and landscapes. The 17-55 f2.8 IS is also a good alternative choice, although not in your budget."
- heri
"- seems to be natural light (no flash), with lots of diffused light, maybe 1 hour before sunset - a DSLR with good dynamic range (5d mkII, nikon d3x). See here http://www.dxomark.com/index... for list of DSLRs with best color depth and best dynamic range - A prime lens is also key. This looks like a 50mm prime with a f1.4 aperture. of coursee, focusing on the eyes helps. The softness you see are out-of-focus areas, having sharp eyes gives though the impression that's it's a sharp picture."
- heri
"Things working for me: - shooting RAW, and adjust the photo in post - think about lighting: sources of lights, their direction, position of camera, colors of light, key vs fill vs back light. Think about using light modifiers, or changing location/time to have better lighting - use a better lens, if possible - be careful on what the camera exposes on. I usually underexpose to capture highlights, since they are not recoverable"
- heri
"the 30/1.4 was a much better lens. but still, the 50/1.4 is my favorite lens. The bokeh, low-light capabilities, Image Quality: all my favorite photos are taken with the 50/1.4. I do not have focusing issues, it's fast and sharp. However, the focus hunts sometimes when I go in bars or clubs and there's minimal light. fiy, I also have 24-70 f2.8L and the 135 f2L canons, but I prefer the sigma for portrait and walk-around. The Canons are imho flat, no micro-constrast, and the colors are also flat"
- heri
heri commented on PhilGo20: Phil, you have to add people to your network to be able to send them private messages. Go to their profile page, and the link to add is on the...
- heri
"I like the photojournalism, no-flash, casual style My favorite is #2 (the "decisive moment"), followed by #7 then #4 the lensbaby effect on the #6 is interesting I didn't get #3 until I noticed the groom was on the right. The light focuses on the guy on the center I would have cropped the right on the #5 I think you were a friend of the bride/groom? It's more easier to take those kind of pictures than if you were a hired pro."
- heri
"Did you consider getting a 50mm f1.8 lens? costs $100 and weighs nothing compared to the 24-70mm. Also Image Quality is better, also better for low-light shooting It would also be less intimidating to your friend than the 24-70mm"
- heri
"go to youtube/myspace/facebook and see how the band performs. if you shoot in small clubs, might be possible to connect with the band before the show and have a relationship with them, during + after the show"
- heri
"photojournalists always use a flash, high-iso cameras, and a f2.8 zoom. In your case, in a low-light situation, either use the flash, or bracket (continuous shoot). you can also underexpose to get a higher shutter speed"
- heri
"If you want to spend as little time as possible in post-prod, a regular video camera such as sanyo vpc-hd2000 is your best bet. The AF works, sound is "ok". With video DSLR, you have to think about rolling shutter issues, sound capture (no manual controls, only automatic gain control), image exposure, support rigs etc. imho, a video DSLR is mainly interesting to independant cinematographers / students who can't afford a regular rig, but still want to control depth of field. Choices: - Panasonic GH1: microfourthirds, focal conversion 2x (the sensor size is 1/4th of a full frame). It goes with a zoom lens designed for video. Great usable 1080p video, but depth of field is limited compared to a Canon 5D Mark II. There's a cheaper alternative now (GF1) with a great 20mm f1.7 lens, but the GF1 doesn't have the automatic focus when filming - Canon T1i: I'd shoot 720p, 30fps. Get the body alone and start with a 30mm Sigma f1.4 lens. The f1.4 aperture gives you cinema-like depth of field..."
- heri
"C’est un problème connu avec Wordpress qui ne gère pas les changements d’heure. Une solution est de changer l’heure du serveur… ce qui n’est pas très pratique"
- heri